What can I say. Second episode.
Happy reading!
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Like any self-respecting mountaineer, I wanted to climb Mont Blanc. Thus, the usual mob gathered, we plan some trips preparing to crown the season with the prestigious climb.
we move to Chamonix in five. The weather forecast giving three days of beautiful, then we can make the trip with calm. It was decided to go the normal route French because estimated as the most feasible, therefore: From Chamonix, train up to eagle nest, climb to the refuge de Tête Rousse (3167), overnight, climbed to the summit (4810), overnight at the shelter Goûter (3817), descent and return home.
Once in Chamonix, it is imperative a tour guide of the house to look at the weather. Damn, today and tomorrow nice and then ceased. So we decide to do that earlier and we sling on the night train to get to the highest hut. Before the ref. Goûter, you have to cross a gully (falling rocks, strongly recommended the helmet) and climb up a rocky ridge is not difficult, but exposed, that I finally settles on the spur where the building rises. We get that by now it is getting dark and started a few flakes of snow. "But how? Time had to be beautiful." Clearly, the place is super-crowded. We had booked the shelter below, and then we have to adapt. Do not put out, but you clutter. Somewhere must hold a reserve of capers on which wrap the unlucky climbers before pressing into beds of lager. The dinner is a problem. The manager there is what is left, ie with a steel tray on the contents of a box of "Ciappi" and ... walk! Spending a little time before your departure in close contact with a foul-smelling sonorosissimo and French, returned from the summit. I am so tired that I could not sleep a wink: departure from Thiene (80 m) at 4, arrive at the refuge (3817 m) to 20.
At the appointed hour for the alarm, the Lodge is all a boil of climbers, a slide harnesses, crampons and put on a rope walk on their own and others, which in itself does not stretch the life of a rope, or rather a harpoon rope will never be used in rock. We look down the ridge from the night before is covered by a thin layer of snow. Bon, we'll think about later. We tacked on to the front row of lamps and begin the ascent. Nothing difficult, it is to walk along a track partially deleted from the snow be faced with a slope rising in tandem. The biggest problems are the altitude and fatigue. As we climb, the day begins to rise, the light changes can be seen on the surrounding peaks. The air changes, it is a feeling that I have tried several times to describe in words, but it is difficult to express the idea. We must try. The mountain is an environment that is unmatched.
At the Vallot Hut (4362), a sheet structure considered, rightly, a haven of luck, we assess the situation. I'm tired, I'm almost sure I have driven a number of feet without realizing it, in a kind of doze. The others are more or less in my own terms and we all have doubts about our reflections. Being tied on the rope should be synonymous with security, but, placed as we are, none of us is said certainly be able to react quickly in case of a fall or slip. In addition, we are concerned about the snow that covers the ridge to be down. "But there are only 500 meters of altitude and we have the whole day before." We try to enter the hut to catch up on some 'forces. Past half an hour and a reconsideration of the situation, we decided reluctantly to go down.
we move to Chamonix in five. The weather forecast giving three days of beautiful, then we can make the trip with calm. It was decided to go the normal route French because estimated as the most feasible, therefore: From Chamonix, train up to eagle nest, climb to the refuge de Tête Rousse (3167), overnight, climbed to the summit (4810), overnight at the shelter Goûter (3817), descent and return home.
Once in Chamonix, it is imperative a tour guide of the house to look at the weather. Damn, today and tomorrow nice and then ceased. So we decide to do that earlier and we sling on the night train to get to the highest hut. Before the ref. Goûter, you have to cross a gully (falling rocks, strongly recommended the helmet) and climb up a rocky ridge is not difficult, but exposed, that I finally settles on the spur where the building rises. We get that by now it is getting dark and started a few flakes of snow. "But how? Time had to be beautiful." Clearly, the place is super-crowded. We had booked the shelter below, and then we have to adapt. Do not put out, but you clutter. Somewhere must hold a reserve of capers on which wrap the unlucky climbers before pressing into beds of lager. The dinner is a problem. The manager there is what is left, ie with a steel tray on the contents of a box of "Ciappi" and ... walk! Spending a little time before your departure in close contact with a foul-smelling sonorosissimo and French, returned from the summit. I am so tired that I could not sleep a wink: departure from Thiene (80 m) at 4, arrive at the refuge (3817 m) to 20.
At the appointed hour for the alarm, the Lodge is all a boil of climbers, a slide harnesses, crampons and put on a rope walk on their own and others, which in itself does not stretch the life of a rope, or rather a harpoon rope will never be used in rock. We look down the ridge from the night before is covered by a thin layer of snow. Bon, we'll think about later. We tacked on to the front row of lamps and begin the ascent. Nothing difficult, it is to walk along a track partially deleted from the snow be faced with a slope rising in tandem. The biggest problems are the altitude and fatigue. As we climb, the day begins to rise, the light changes can be seen on the surrounding peaks. The air changes, it is a feeling that I have tried several times to describe in words, but it is difficult to express the idea. We must try. The mountain is an environment that is unmatched.
At the Vallot Hut (4362), a sheet structure considered, rightly, a haven of luck, we assess the situation. I'm tired, I'm almost sure I have driven a number of feet without realizing it, in a kind of doze. The others are more or less in my own terms and we all have doubts about our reflections. Being tied on the rope should be synonymous with security, but, placed as we are, none of us is said certainly be able to react quickly in case of a fall or slip. In addition, we are concerned about the snow that covers the ridge to be down. "But there are only 500 meters of altitude and we have the whole day before." We try to enter the hut to catch up on some 'forces. Past half an hour and a reconsideration of the situation, we decided reluctantly to go down.
Goûter At the shelter, drink tea and recover a bit 'of lucidity. We can deal with the crest. Fortunately the sun has dropped and the snow, apart from the danger that some of the many climbers fall down on your head, we will have no difficulty in arriving at the bottom. Finally we are at the train station and we can reach Chamonix. We find a place to sleep and take a shower and, after eating the entire reserve of bread the restaurant, dipped in the fondue, we go to bed now.
morning, beautiful day. Damn meteorologists tube! Goes well, we take it philosophically. At the bottom of the Mont Blanc will be in place for a few centuries and perhaps return to try (which is not yet the case however). Perhaps with a little 'more than courage or recklessness we reached the top, but still talk it over with my buddies then, we are happy with the choice made. One thing is to face a difficulty that you get it, another is trying to strut.
If either of these stories you will want to climb the 4,000 meters, let me know. Maybe you can take a ride together.
Manrico
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